Watch Education
Watch Movement
- Watch Anatomy
First Sub Title
- Watch Movements
Second Sub Title
- Watch Complications
Third Sub Title
- Watch Materials
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- Water Resistance
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- Watch Buying Guide
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- Watch Maintenance
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- Common Technical Questions
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- Glossary
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WHAT IS A MOVEMENT
A movement is what makes a watch “go.” Most watch companies purchase either the entire movement or parts of the movement from other companies. There are a handful of companies that are ‘vertically integrated’ and make their own movements without using any supplies from subcontractors. These companies are referred to as Manufactures, and the watches they make are typically more expensive and highly sought after because of their exclusivity.
Major Movement
- Manual Movement
- Automatic Movement (Self-winding)
- Quartz Movement
All Movement
- Manual Movement
- Automatic Movement (Self-winding)
- Semi Automatic Movement
- Quartz Movement
- Solar Movement
- Spring Drive Movement
- Kinetic Movement
1. Mechanical Movement Parts
- Mainspring: The coiled spring that stores energy when wound manually.
- Balance Wheel: The oscillating component that helps regulate timekeeping.
- Escapement: The mechanism that controls the release of energy from the mainspring.
- Gears: A series of wheels that transmit energy from the mainspring to the hands.
- Winding Stem and Crown: The external parts used to wind the watch and set the time.
2. Automatic (Self-Winding) Movement Parts
- Rotor: A semi-circular weight that swings with the motion of the wrist, winding the mainspring.
- Mainspring: The power source, wound by the rotor or manually.
- Balance Wheel: Governs the oscillation of the movement, ensuring accurate timekeeping.
- Escapement: Regulates the energy released from the mainspring to power the movement.
- Winding Stem and Crown: Allows manual winding and time setting, complementing the automatic winding.
3. Semi-Automatic Movement Parts
- Rotor: Similar to automatic movements, it winds the mainspring with wrist motion.
- Mainspring: Stores energy that powers the watch, can be wound both automatically and manually.
- Balance Wheel: Ensures consistent timekeeping through its oscillations.
- Escapement: Controls the release of energy from the mainspring to drive the movement.
- Winding Stem and Crown: Used for both manual winding and setting the time.
4. Quartz Movement Parts
- Quartz Crystal: Vibrates at a precise frequency when an electric current passes through, regulating time.
- Battery: Provides the electrical power needed to run the movement.
- Integrated Circuit: Controls the electrical functions and manages the timekeeping.
- Step Motor: Converts the electrical energy into mechanical movement, driving the hands.
- Dial and Hands: The visible parts that display the time, driven by the step motor.
5. Solar Movement Parts
- Solar Panel: Converts light into electrical energy to power the watch.
- Rechargeable Battery: Stores the energy generated by the solar panel for long-term use.
- Quartz Crystal: Maintains accurate timekeeping by vibrating at a consistent frequency.
- Integrated Circuit: Manages the electrical flow and timekeeping functions.
- Step Motor: Drives the hands using the energy from the rechargeable battery.
6. Kinetic Movement Parts
- Rotor: Similar to automatic movements, it generates electrical energy through wrist motion.
- Electrical Generator: Converts kinetic energy from the rotor into electrical energy.
- Rechargeable Battery: Stores the electrical energy generated by the rotor.
- Quartz Crystal: Ensures precise timekeeping by vibrating at a steady frequency.
- Integrated Circuit: Controls the electrical functions and timekeeping mechanisms.
- Step Motor: Moves the hands with the energy stored in the rechargeable battery.
7. Spring Drive Movement Parts
- Mainspring: Powers the movement, similar to traditional mechanical watches.
- Glide Wheel: Regulates the movement, replacing the traditional balance wheel.
- Tri-synchro Regulator: Controls the flow of energy from the mainspring to the glide wheel, using magnetic, mechanical, and electrical forces.
- Quartz Crystal: Governs the precise regulation of time, combined with the traditional mechanical movement.
- Rotor: In some models, assists in winding the mainspring automatically.
- Winding Stem and Crown: Allows for manual winding and time setting.
Manual Movement
A manual movement, frequently called a hand-wound movement, is the oldest type of watch movement made, dating back to the 16th century. It requires daily winding in order to work. Manual movements are the most traditional movements and are usually found in very conservative, expensive, and collectable watches.
- Daily winding is required.
- When winding a manual watch, it should be wound until there is a feeling of tension or tightness on the crown. If it is wound past this point, damage to the movement may occur.
- Remove the watch from the wrist prior to winding or setting. Failure to do so will cause damage to the movement, crown, and stem.
- Components of the manual movement:
First Sub Title
- Crown: The wheel on the side, used to set time and wind the mainspring, powering the watch.
- Mainspring: Stores energy from winding, tightening as it accumulates power.
- Gear Train: A sequence of gears transferring energy from the mainspring to the escapement.
- Escapement: Regulates the release of energy, ensuring consistent timekeeping.
- Balance Wheel: The heartbeat of the watch, oscillating to control timing precision.
- Dial Train: Moves the hands using regulated energy from the balance wheel.
- Jewels: Synthetic rubies reduce friction at key points, improving accuracy and longevity.
How Manual Movements Work:
- Winding the Crown: Turning the crown winds the mainspring, storing energy.
- Energy Transfer: The gear train transmits this energy to the escapement.
- Regulating Energy: The escapement controls the release of energy in precise intervals.
- Oscillation: The balance wheel uses this regulated energy to oscillate consistently.
- Moving the Hands: The dial train transfers energy to the hands with each set of oscillations.
- Timekeeping: The hands advance, displaying the time.
- Components of the Atomtic movement:
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- Crown: Used to set the time and manually wind the watch.
- Mainspring: Stores energy when wound, powering the movement.
- Gear Train: Transfers energy from the mainspring to the escapement.
- Escapement: Regulates energy release, driving consistent timekeeping.
- Balance Wheel: Oscillates to maintain time accuracy.
- Dial Train: Moves the watch hands with regulated energy.
- Jewels: Synthetic rubies reduce friction, enhancing accuracy.
- Rotor: A metal weight that swings with wrist movement, winding the mainspring automatically, equipped with a clutch to prevent overwinding.
Crystal
The crystal is the transparent cover that shields the watch face, providing protection against dirt, dust, and water. In watchmaking, three primary types of crystals are commonly used, each offering varying levels of durability and clarity.
Acrylic: Cost-effective and easy to shape but prone to scratches and cracking. Minor scratches can be polished out, making it a durable option for many.
Mineral: Crafted from glass, it’s more resistant to scratches than acrylic but lacks the ability to be buffed if scratched. It’s affordable and has a long history in watchmaking.
Synthetic Sapphire: This lab-grown crystal mimics the properties of natural sapphire, making it incredibly resistant to scratches. However, it can chip or shatter upon impact, potentially damaging the watch’s movement. It’s the most expensive option, commonly used in high-end watches from Switzerland.
- Components of the manual movement:
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